Tuesday, June 2, 2009

What's that Smell?

I picked up some Super Gold odorless glue today at Hobbytown. If you thought GW was expensive, try $13 for an ounce of this stuff. I'm not sure what happened to me, but after a couple years of model assembly, regular super glue triggers an allergic reaction. I get allergy symptoms lasting at least a day. Allergies can take a couple years to exhibit themselves, so it's not that surprising. Primer is even worse, but I wear a respirator for that. However, model building projects using glue can take several hours, making a respirator impractical. The advice I'm getting is to work very hard at ventilation and try this type of glue. I was told one guy even built a special ventilation box to build his models. I've got an urge to build more chimeras for 40K, so I may give this a test soon.
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11 comments:

  1. FulminataJune 3, 2009 at 3:19 AM

    You're using super glue for Chimeras? Is the allergy triggered by plastic glue as well?

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  2. Jeffrey MackoJune 3, 2009 at 5:53 AM

    For like, $40 you could easily rig up an exhaust fan, via some clothes dryer vent to dump the fumes outside the house.

    http://www.smarthome.com/3016/4-In-110VAC-80CFM-In-Line-Duct-Fan-DB204/p.aspx

    http://www.percys.com/showproduct.aspx?productid=1291&zipcode=01605&affiliateid=10050&utm_source=Google-Base&utm_medium=RSS&utm_campaign=Google-Base

    Add a few feet of electrical cord and a wall plug, plus some duct tape and all your fumes are now outside.

    In a lab they would use a "fume hood"

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  3. Gary RayJune 3, 2009 at 8:17 AM

    I have not tested plastic glue, but that would be an obvious alternative. I don't really like plastic glue that much, I think it's messy, but it beats an allergy attack.

    I like the exhaust fan idea. I think I'll first take ventilation more seriously, making sure I've got a couple fans going and the windows open. Now that I've made the connection between action and reaction, managing it shouldn't be too hard.

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  4. FulminataJune 3, 2009 at 8:31 AM

    You need to learn to use the plastic glue, it's so much easier and faster to work with plastic kits using it, once you get the hang of it. No wonder you've developed an allergy, I can't imagine doing as many tanks as you've done using super glue, it would take forever!

    The Testor's Model Master Liquid Cement For Plastic Models is the best I've found, largely because the applicator tip allows for the most precision. The trick with polystyrene glue is not to use too much as it will mess up the surface of your model if you get it on there.

    You should still build that exhaust fan as you'll need it when working with any resin or metal models, and there's a chance you'll be allergic to the polystyrene glue too, it's certainly not odorless!

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  5. Gary RayJune 3, 2009 at 8:36 AM

    I don't find the type of glue any faster or slower. I built one tank with plastic glue and got annoyed with the mess. Still, it's worth a shot again.

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  6. Gary RayJune 3, 2009 at 8:42 AM

    So I'm going to try plastic glue first and then try my odorless CA glue. I'll need CA glue anyway for metal gluing.

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  7. FulminataJune 3, 2009 at 9:07 AM

    Plastic glue is faster with smaller models like infantry. With the vehicle kits you do still often have to apply pressure until it dries on the larger pieces, so appropriate use of vices, clamps and rubber bands is called for.

    Good luck!

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  8. JoeDogJune 3, 2009 at 10:10 AM

    There is also a "non-toxic" version of the Testors model glue.

    For super glue, I have started using the "Insta Cure IC-GEL" from bsi adhesives. This is easier to control than regular super glue (fewer drips) and seems to work a little better. It is also easier to open and close the container (a tube, in this case), so there is less vapor, and less drying of the glue in the container.

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  9. Silas HumphreysJune 3, 2009 at 10:42 AM

    Plastic glue can be messy, but the types which come with a long metal tube applicator really cut down on that, as does the old advice on how to get to Carnegie Hall!

    I don't think I'd be able to cope with doing vehicle kits using superglue. The extra time the plastic cement takes to set lets me get things *perfect*. It also gives me a workout of my logic skills, as I figure out which subassemblies I should do in what order to avoid long stretches of "sit and wait for the glue to go off".

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  10. FulminataJune 3, 2009 at 11:05 AM

    Totally agree with what Silas said. The Testor's Model Master glue I mentioned is one that uses the long metal applicator. Don't try using the ones that use a plastic dropper like the GW glue.

    Testor's also makes a glue that's specifically for clear plastic. I'd highly recommend this if you decide to get those Valkyries as it can save you a lot of heartache over ruined windscreens.

    It's not good for general purposes as the bond isn't especially strong, but it won't ruin the clear plastic if you accidentally get some on it.

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  11. librarianJune 3, 2009 at 3:53 PM

    Gary, do you carry Testors there at your store?

    I just bought a great Testors starter kit from my local hobby shop that was $26.99, has 11 paints, 2 brushes, several different glues, hobby knife, etc. Seems much more reasonable than a similar GW kit.

    Luckily, the hobby shop is right next to my FLC(ASG)S. So I can replenish my supply as necessary.

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